The Red Sun Fire Roasting Co. in Oswego sizzles
By Christopher Malone
There’s a lot to take in when stepping foot inside Oswego’s The Red Sun Fire Roasting Co., located at 207 W. First St.
Of all the times I’ve driven or walked past the façade, save the countless times saying, “I have to try this place sometime,” it’s impressive seeing its guts for the first time. I audibly uttered, “Wow,” upon stepping in.
Red Sun — how I’ll respectfully refer to this eatery with the mouthful for a name — is a lot larger than it looks. There’s a lot to take in, especially with the prominent exposed brick and murals. The atmosphere is casual and photogenic.
I was seated at a solitary table because bar space was filled up on this busy weeknight. They told me a 10-minute wait but it was only a handful.
After sitting and ordering my ommegang rare vos ($6), plus two appetizers, the Thai chicken lettuce wraps ($10) and burrata panzanella ($8), I had a little bit of a wait before the two fresh starters came out.
The burrata appetizer featured the soft mozzarella and cream ball propped up by two pieces of golden beet in the center of the plate. A ring of watercress, more beet chunks, extra virgin olive oil, and balsamic reduction graced the plate and surrounded the bulbous cheese ball.
The beets were cooked perfectly and, with the combination of the cheese and flavors, was nothing short of delightful. Plus, it’s great bursting the burrata and watching the deliciousness spill out.
The Thai chicken lettuce wraps is an option for the adults who love to play with their food. Four romaine leaves were stacked next to a dish of ground chicken and shallots. Also on the plate was a condiment cup of the Thai peanut sauce. The ratio of the ground chicken with the four romaine leaves was spot on. There could have been a tad bit more of the peanut sauce but that’s because it’s wonderful. The medium-thick sauce boasts a distinguishable amount of curry but it’s not overpowering.
Where there is a wood-fired oven, sign me up for some pizza.
Red Sun flaunts a unique, confident list of pizzas, and I opted for the one with garlic, truffle oil, portabella, and more. It’s called the forestiere ($14), which is a French term for “of the forest.” (I definitely looked that up on Google.)
The bottom of the pizza was perfect but the edge crust was a little doughy. After heating up the leftovers the next day for dinner (and breakfast), it crisped it right up.
When you dine, if you prefer a crispy crust, just ask. There are no complaints about the flavor of a good garlic pie. The truffle flavor was surprisingly subdued. Truffles can be overwhelming but this time it shared the spotlight with the mushrooms, cheeses and smoke from the oven.
Blame my lack of attention or reading the fine print too quickly, but in my haste I ordered two entrees that came with risotto and asparagus — the Chilean sea bass ($26) and the sous vide duck leg ($24). Aside from this oops, there are no regrets.
The citrus herb risotto was something to take note of, considering one of my favorite things to make is risotto. Red Sun’s is creamy and has bright piquancy thanks to the orange, lemon and whatever the chef decided to throw in there. The Arborio rice was cooked to perfection. If there’s an option to order it à la carte, do it.
No offense to the asparagus, which was sautéed perfectly, but risotto takes a little more TLC.
The sous vide duck leg had a crispy, delicious skin braised with orange pekoe tea. It was also covered with a raspberry and Riesling coulis. That sauce saved the entrée because, unfortunately, the duck leg was a little overcooked. But it wasn’t dry like the Griswold’s Christmas turkey. There was still flavor to it.
The Chilean sea bass was a nice, meaty fish. If there was any fishy pungency, it was hidden by the Moroccan basil chermoula. To best describe this wonderful sauce, it’s incredibly similar to its worldly cousins, pesto and chimichurri.
It was nice to see a different fish entree aside from salmon, which wasn’t on the menu. Enjoying this colorful, well-plated fish dish was even better.
Before tip, the bill was just under $100, which is reasonable when considering quality.
The Red Sun Fire Roasting Co. doesn’t pull back when it comes to flavor. It’s definitely worth a visit and countless returns.
Red Sun Fire Roasting Co.
207 W. First St.,
Oswego, NY 13126
Mon. – Thurs.: 4:30–8 p.m.
Fri. – Sat.: 4:30–9 p.m.