Restaurant on the shores of Sandy Pond in Pulaski offers good food with a view
By Christopher Malone
Looking to finally take your step out into the world and enjoy a break from cooking every meal day-in and day-out?
Kyle’s Wigwam, at 45 Wigwam Dr. in Pulaski, caught my attention for this next restaurant review. The family-friendly restaurant that boasts comfort food and a quick bite, and “great cocktails,” plus offer a kid’s menu, is located looking out at North Sandy Pond. The live music was an easy sell, too.
Kyle’s Wigwam is a very clean restaurant upon entering, while sitting at the bar, at a booth, at an outdoor table, the utensils we had, and the bathroom — it was all tidy and smelled fresh (yes, I got nosy). The indoor booths, despite having enough room within each, were occupied every-other for the safety of spreading any threat of the nasty coronavirus. Masks are required when you move around the restaurant, not while you’re sitting and dining.
People were diligent. The music, the duo Double Vs specializing in covers, was great. Couples were constantly dancing. A woman was celebrating her 90th birthday — no fear of being out in public. The slight breeze coming off the water on a humid day was comfortable.
We enjoyed a coke ($2.25) and a New Belgium Fat Tire ($7) while we put in and then waited for our starters. There were a few things that seemed interesting. And waited. And waited some more — about 20 minutes total. A few minutes after our appetizers came, our entrees came out. It was a bit of a surprise, considering the restaurant is working in COVID-19 capacity.
The Sandy Pond skippers ($8) and mozzarella moons ($8) started things off. The local favorite Sandy Pond skippers lived up to the hype. This literal twisted take on fries won us over at first bite. The thick cut, lightly salted fries are lightly covered in garlic butter, parmesan cheese and parsley. These are some of the best fries I’ve enjoyed. They’re not overly seasoned but the nice glob of the garlic butter and aforementioned seasonings were a treat to dip the fries into.
The mozzarella moons were a great take, a good alternative to sticks. Three halfmoon-shaped fried cheeses were seasoned nicely, crisp and not overflowing with cheese. The marinara sauce that came with was a flavorful complement.
For entrees, we decided on the fish tacos (three for $12) and the “Trifecta” ($18). The latter included one bacon-wrapped scallop, one crab cake, and one 3 oz. filet medallion all served open-faced on Texas toast, plus a side of homemade chips. This entrée generated a see-saw of emotions, and what won me over was the pile of homemade chips. These crispy, lightly salted chips were also some of the best I’ve had. When it comes to lightly fried sides, Kyle’s Wigwam does it right.
There were two bacon-wrapped scallops that came because they were both pretty small and overcooked — so, chewy. The crab cake, save the ample size and good flavor, was cold. The filet was also cold. The well-seasoned and appropriately cooked (medium rare) meat was standing on each slice of dry Texas toast. However, the pieces of toast were large, thick and toasted well. Kyle’s Wigwam definitely wasn’t winning the aesthetic game with this very brown plate.
The fish tacos were joined by sides of salsa, sour cream and guacamole for no additional cost. The untoasted soft taco shells were filled with iceberg lettuce, a boat load of cheese, and haddock — that’s it. Like searching for a prize at the bottom of a ball pit, the pieces of haddock were just rewards. The haddock was very good but the tacos as a whole fell to mediocre status.
After our plates were cleared, it took another 20 minutes to deliver our check. (Yes, I could have gone up to ask for it but this is a review, folks.) Before adding tip and with the 3% upcharge for using a credit card to pay, the total came to $59.21.
Although I won’t be sending or following signals to join a gathering at Kyle’s Wigwam anytime soon, they’ve done a wonderful job to normalize life while still living in an uncertain time. To stress again — it’s a clean, family-friendly atmosphere. If there is any fear about eating out, they’ll quash it.
45 Wigwam Dr., Pulaski, NY 13142
Sun.: Noon – 9 p.m.
Mon. & Tues.: Closed
Wed.: 4 – 9 p.m.
Thurs.: 4 – 10 p.m.
Fri.: 4 – 11 p.m.
Sat.: Noon – 11 p.m.